They typically start making a roaring noise when replacement is needed.

Life is cycle-limited rather than mileage-limited. The best preventative measure is to lock the doors as little as possible.

You can usually hear them when they start going bad. A good preventative-maintenance item to replace at that mileage.

The bearings wear out and the pump starts leaking coolant. The OEM pump lasts about 75k miles; modern aftermarket pumps only about 50k. Either change it on a regular interval or keep a close eye on the coolant level and watch under the truck for leaks.

Good for roughly 225k before the brushes, slip ring, and bearings need attention.

The DC motor brushes wear out around this mileage.

These plastics deteriorate with miles; anything over 100k is at risk of cracking and dumping all the coolant. Replace them at 100k as preventative maintenance. It's also worth running an unpressurized cooling system — see the cooling post in our technical articles.

The fan is a brittle plastic that deteriorates with thermal cycles. It's known to crack and then explode at highway speed, destroying the cooling hoses, radiator shroud, oil cooler hoses, transmission cooler hoses, power steering hoses, air intake tube, mass airflow sensor, and wiring. Replace around 100k if OEM, with the Ford Explorer fan and clutch (see the parts reference). The factory fan clutch is also good for about 100k — if the truck struggles to hold low temperatures at idle, that's the sign the clutch fan has worn out.

The DC motor brushes wear out around this mileage and the fan becomes noisy.

The frequent leak point on the factory pump is the rear gasket blowing out, which is not wear-related. The front bearing itself does wear out, but not until around 250k+.

Salt exposure shortens this interval.

Because of the transfer case design and the center-shaft O-ring material, the seal begins to seep around 150k. There's no way to prevent it without disconnecting the transfer case from the transmission and replacing the seal. If you do, use a high-quality O-ring and coat the head of the shaft with a liberal coating of Permatex high-torque RTV. The seepage is minor and easily managed by keeping an eye on the oil level through the transfer case sight glass.

The PCV mod is the fix, and all our trucks run it. Details: V288 / FV308 PCV install thread.

The rollers are very brittle and the factory didn't use enough lubricant on the tracks. The typical failure is the roller breaking and the arm jumping out of the track. We pull the interior door panels and pack the tracks with grease, which prevents the broken-roller failure entirely.

Gaps in the sunroof pan let water in, which then causes headliner and sunroof-motor problems. Extinct-prepped trucks get rear drains added, all leak points sealed, headliner boards waterproofed, and the sunroof motor waterproofed. If yours isn't Extinct-prepped, see the sunroof mod in our technical articles.

Most often related to overheating after the plastic cooling-system components crack and dump the coolant.

No Land Rover thermostat design is immune. The bypass mod is the most reliable fix.

The rear seal between the reservoir and the master cylinder degrades over time and begins leaking — running DOT3 instead of the recommended DOT4 speeds it up. It doesn't affect braking, but it does leak fluid. Usually starts around 100k miles. Replace the individual seal with a rebuild kit, or replace the entire master cylinder.

As above — the coolant reservoir, radiator tanks, plastic lines, hoses, lower wye, and radiator fan all degrade from thermal cycling.

These fail from the thermal cycling caused by the factory location behind the engine. Extinct-prepped trucks have the coils relocated to the top of the intake manifold, and we sell a kit to do it yourself. Expect this to become a possibility around 100k miles.

Typically fail from thermal cycling near the exhaust manifold; poor routing that runs them too close makes it worse. The coil-relocation kit improves the routing, but it's still possible. Usually starts around 100k miles.

The factory interior fuse boxes have a known failure where the main board develops cracked solder joints, which shows up as problems with the HVAC blower fan running.

As above — Extinct-prepped trucks have this addressed. If yours isn't, see the sunroof mod in our technical articles.

As mentioned, most power-steering-pump leaks come from a gasket failure on the back of the pump, usually around 100k miles. Improved gaskets are widely available and typically eliminate it.

The factory boosters occasionally fail — possibly age-related, though it's rare enough that the exact cause isn't known. The booster is unfortunately no longer available as a replacement part.

Known to melt down if the seat tracks fill with debris and overload the motors. Keep the seat tracks clear.

The factory cowl panel is a brittle plastic that cracks from UV exposure. Extinct-prepped trucks have it sprayed with a UV-resistant bedliner. Replacement parts are currently available from Portuguese manufacturers.

The usual failure is a cracked vacuum hose between the cruise pump and the diaphragm — easily fixed by replacing the hose.

These degrade and start to leak. The Remflex gaskets in the parts reference have worked best on our trucks. Before removal, soak the factory studs and nuts with Aerokroil for three days straight, then replace with the Extinct grade-8 bolt and copper-nut kit from the website.

Like most vehicles, the suspension and steering boots — CV joints, ball joints, and the rest — crack and degrade with age and exposure, and should be inspected periodically.